Rippling water waves showing interference patterns

The wave equation

PHYS 210 · Wave Fundamentals

The wave equation describes disturbances that travel without changing shape in ideal media. This lesson introduces traveling wave functions and the one-dimensional wave equation.

Key equations

y(x,t)y(x,t)=f(x-vt)y(x,t)=f(x+vt)y(x,t)=A\cos(kx-\omega t+\phi)k=\frac{2\pi}{\lambda}\omega=\frac{2\pi}{T}=2\pi fv=\frac{\omega}{k}=f\lambda\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial x^2}=\frac{1}{v^2}\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial t^2}kx-\omega t+\phi\frac{dx}{dt}=\frac{\omega}{k}=v

Learning objectives

  • Represent traveling waves using functions of $x\pm vt$.
  • Identify amplitude, wave number, angular frequency, wavelength, and phase.
  • State the one-dimensional wave equation.
  • Explain why waves require partial derivatives.
  • Derive phase velocity from constant phase.

What a wave is

A wave is a disturbance that travels through space and time, carrying energy and information. Water waves, sound waves, waves on strings, seismic waves, and electromagnetic waves all share this basic idea, even though their physical mechanisms differ.

A one-dimensional wave traveling along the x-axis can often be represented by a function

y(x,t)y(x,t)

where yy is the displacement of the medium at position xx and time tt.

Traveling wave form

A wave moving to the right with speed vv can be written

y(x,t)=f(xvt)y(x,t)=f(x-vt)

This expression means the shape ff moves in the positive x-direction without changing shape. At later times, the same feature appears at larger xx.

A wave moving to the left can be written

y(x,t)=f(x+vt)y(x,t)=f(x+vt)

The sign tells the direction of travel.

Sinusoidal waves

A sinusoidal traveling wave moving to the right is often written

y(x,t)=Acos(kxomegat+phi)y(x,t)=Acos(kx-omega t+phi)

Here AA is amplitude, kk is wave number, omegaomega is angular frequency, and phiphi is phase constant.

The wave number is related to wavelength:

k= rac{2pi}{lambda}

The angular frequency is related to period and frequency:

omega= rac{2pi}{T}=2pi f

The wave speed is

v= rac{omega}{k}=flambda

The one-dimensional wave equation

The ideal one-dimensional wave equation is

rac{partial^2 y}{partial x^2}= rac{1}{v^2} rac{partial^2 y}{partial t^2}

This partial differential equation relates curvature in space to acceleration in time. It says that the medium's local acceleration is tied to the shape of the disturbance.

A function of the form f(xvt)f(x-vt) or f(x+vt)f(x+vt) satisfies this equation for wave speed vv.

Why partial derivatives appear

A wave function depends on two variables: position and time. A partial derivative measures change with respect to one variable while holding the other fixed.

The derivative partialy/partialxpartial y/partial x describes spatial slope at a fixed time. The derivative partialy/partialtpartial y/partial t describes how the displacement changes at a fixed position.

This is different from a particle trajectory x(t)x(t), which depends only on time.

Physical origin of the wave equation

The wave equation appears when neighboring parts of a system exert restoring effects on one another. For a string under tension, curved parts of the string experience net forces that accelerate them toward a straighter shape. For sound, pressure differences accelerate fluid elements. For electromagnetic waves, changing electric and magnetic fields regenerate one another.

The specific wave speed depends on the medium and restoring mechanism.

Phase

The phase of a sinusoidal wave is

kxomegat+phikx-omega t+phi

Points with the same phase have the same state of oscillation. For a crest, the phase remains constant as the crest moves. Setting

kxomegat=constantkx-omega t=constant

and differentiating gives

k rac{dx}{dt}-omega=0

so

rac{dx}{dt}= rac{omega}{k}=v

This is the phase velocity.

The big idea

The wave equation describes disturbances that propagate through space with speed vv. Traveling wave solutions depend on xvtx-vt or x+vtx+vt, while sinusoidal waves use amplitude, wavelength, frequency, wave number, and phase. This mathematical structure is the foundation for wave physics across many systems.

Ask your AI physics guide

AI Physics Chat· Waves and Oscillations — The wave equation

Ask anything about Waves and Oscillations — The wave equation, or choose a suggested question below.

AI responses are educational and may not be perfectly accurate. Press Enter to send, Shift+Enter for new line.